"Tchindas" is a captivating 2015 documentary directed by Pablo García Pérez de Lara and Marc Serena, which provides a heartfelt glimpse into the colorful world of Cape Verde's Carnival. The film focuses on Tchinda Andrade, a beloved transgender figure who has become synonymous with LGBTQ+ identity in the small Cape Verdean community. Through the lens of this vibrant celebration, the filmmakers explore themes of inclusivity, creativity, community, and the transformative power of self-expression in the lead-up to Carnival.
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Tchinda Andrade’s journey is emblematic of the broader cultural and social dynamics at play in Cape Verde. She gained significant local recognition in 1998 when she publicly came out as a transgender woman in the pages of a Cape Verdean newspaper. This moment marked a milestone in the country’s LGBTQ+ history, and her name soon became a term that locals would use to refer to queer individuals in Cape Verde. Despite her widely admired status, Tchinda remains remarkably humble and grounded. Every day, she can be found selling "coxinhas," a traditional Brazilian snack of fried chicken-filled dough balls, around the neighborhood. These humble daily activities contrast with the spectacular and transformative environment of Carnival, during which the pace of life in the island's capital, Mindelo, shifts dramatically. The days leading up to Carnival are a whirlwind of energy, with locals banding together to prepare for the island’s largest cultural event. As the documentary unfolds, we witness the meticulous and collaborative effort involved in organizing the Carnival, an event that brings together people from all walks of life in a collective celebration of culture, tradition, and inclusivity.
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The film transports us to São Vicente, a small island in Cape Verde, as the community comes alive with anticipation for the annual Carnival celebrations. Over the month before the event, the island’s residents work tirelessly, creating spectacular floats, costumes, and decorations with limited resources and immense creativity. This process, which requires the collective efforts of many, is captured by the directors with an intimacy that allows the viewer to experience the dedication and passion that goes into every detail. Tchinda plays a central role in this effort, acting as a mentor and organizer for the community as they prepare for the festivities. Despite her decision not to participate in the 2013 Carnival herself, she remains the guiding force behind the event. Alongside her, we meet Elvis Tolentino, a celebrated Carnival participant known for his impeccable costumes, and Edinha Pitanga, another transgender individual who contributes significantly to the creation of the costumes and float designs. Together, the trio forms the heart of the community’s Carnival preparations. They conceptualize a float inspired by the ocean, which becomes a symbol of Cape Verde’s deep connection to the sea and its heritage. Each piece of the float, every stitch in the costumes, and every element of the performance is created with care, passion, and a sense of purpose. The collaboration is driven by limited financial resources, but the community's inventiveness ensures that every detail is meticulously crafted.
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What makes "Tchindas" particularly special is its exploration of Cape Verde’s embrace of LGBTQ+ individuals within the context of a larger cultural celebration. The documentary showcases a rare example of trans inclusion and acceptance in a traditionally conservative society. Cape Verde is often regarded as one of the most gay-friendly countries in Africa, according to a 2016 Afrobarometer report, and "Tchindas" beautifully captures this open-hearted acceptance through the people of Mindelo. The film also highlights the central role that music plays in the Carnival, with the iconic sounds of Cape Verdean Creole and the soulful mornas of Cesária Évora, the country's most famous singer, creating a vibrant soundtrack to the narrative. Cesária Évora, a beloved cultural ambassador for Cape Verde, often described the Carnival of São Vicente as the best in Africa. Her music forms the emotional backbone of the film, adding layers of nostalgia and longing that resonate throughout the documentary.
"Tchindas" is not just a documentary about Carnival; it’s a window into the heart and soul of a close-knit community that comes together to create something beautiful. While the central focus is on the preparations for Carnival, the film also delves into the personal stories of its participants. We see Tchinda, Elvis, and Edinha not just as figures preparing for an event, but as individuals with rich histories, aspirations, and dreams. The documentary captures their lives in the weeks leading up to Carnival with a cinéma vérité style that allows the viewer to witness the behind-the-scenes challenges, the moments of camaraderie, and the deep connections between the community members. The streets of Mindelo come alive with color, music, and laughter, while the filmmakers’ careful attention to detail allows us to experience the sense of place, history, and tradition that is woven into the fabric of the community.
As the film progresses, we gain insight into the deeper spiritual and cultural dimensions of the Carnival. One significant figure referenced in the film is Pomba Gira, a female spirit in Afro-Brazilian religion, whose presence is felt throughout the film. While the documentary doesn’t explicitly explain the significance of Pomba Gira, it is clear that the spirit plays a crucial role in the emotional and artistic expressions that unfold during Carnival. In the final moments of the film, when Carnival reaches its peak, the performances of Elvis, Edinha, and others become a celebration of their identities, their community, and the collective joy that defines the spirit of Carnival. The film captures a transcendent moment of release, as the participants revel in their creativity and expression, showcasing the power of pride, self-expression, and solidarity.
"Tchindas" has garnered significant praise from critics and audiences alike for its portrayal of a community coming together to celebrate diversity and creativity. The Hollywood Reporter described it as a "beautifully shot vérité chronicle" of the Carnival preparations, while Chicago Reader noted the film’s "vivid sense of place, community, and personalities." The film’s intimate approach to storytelling and its celebration of Cape Verde’s LGBTQ+ community earned it recognition at numerous film festivals, including the Outfest Los Angeles, the Chicago Reeling LGBT Film Festival, and MiradasDoc, among others. The film's ability to blend tradition with contemporary themes of inclusivity and acceptance has made it a standout work in the realm of documentary filmmaking. "Tchindas" not only captures the spirit of Cape Verde’s Carnival but also highlights the universal desire for self-expression and the celebration of one’s identity.
"Tchindas" is a testament to the power of community, creativity, and acceptance. Through the lens of the Carnival preparations on São Vicente, the film offers a glimpse into a world where LGBTQ+ individuals are celebrated and their identities are embraced as part of the rich cultural tapestry of Cape Verde. The documentary is both a celebration of Carnival and an exploration of the transformative power of love, pride, and self-expression. It serves as a reminder that the most vibrant celebrations of life often arise from the simplest, most heartfelt moments of connection between people. In a world where trans individuals are often marginalized, "Tchindas" stands as a powerful affirmation of the importance of inclusivity, visibility, and the joy that comes from being able to live authentically. It’s a film that not only showcases the beauty of Cape Verde's Carnival but also the resilience and spirit of a community that has learned to embrace its differences and turn them into something extraordinary.
Image credits: Vimeo
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