Against the Current, a 2020 documentary directed by Óskar Páll Sveinsson, chronicles the extraordinary journey of Veiga Grétarsdóttir, a woman who defied both literal and figurative currents in her life. Grétarsdóttir, the first person in the world to attempt to kayak the 1,300-mile circumference of Iceland, embarks on a challenge that has been compared to the feat of climbing K2. Her journey, however, extends beyond the physical realm, as the film also delves into her deeply personal struggle to transition from male to female.
Veiga's odyssey - spanning 103 days on the waters surrounding Iceland - draws a powerful parallel to the internal journey she has undergone. Born 44 years ago as a boy in a small fishing village on Iceland's far west coast, Veiga's life was marked by intense inner conflict. As a young man, she lived with the weight of a secret: her true identity as a woman. By the age of 38, after years of turmoil, Veiga made the monumental decision to transition, undergoing gender reassignment surgery. This decision marked the beginning of a difficult and painful journey of self-realization, a path that was not only physically taxing but emotionally excruciating. For Veiga, the transition was as challenging - if not more so - than her daring solo kayak expedition around Iceland. In Against the Current, these two profound stories are intertwined.
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The documentary captures Veiga's remarkable 103-day journey through Iceland's rugged, breathtaking coastline, where she faces harsh weather, unpredictable seas, and the personal struggles of hormone injections and a strict diet. Interspersed with this narrative is the story of her transition - an emotional rollercoaster that includes heartbreaking moments of self-doubt, but ultimately leads to her triumph in embracing her true self. This juxtaposition of her athletic challenge with her personal transformation creates a compelling narrative that is both visually stunning and emotionally poignant. As the film follows Veiga's kayaking expedition, viewers are introduced to her background. Raised in Ísafjörður, a remote fishing village in Iceland’s Westfjords, Veiga developed a passion for kayaking early on. However, it was not just a sport for her - it was a vehicle for self-expression and a means of escaping the inner turmoil she felt about her gender identity. Despite excelling in the sport, the oppressive expectations of masculinity in her community led to years of suffering. She was married, with children, but struggled in silence, battling feelings of isolation and gender dysphoria.
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The documentary emphasizes that, while her physical journey around Iceland was grueling, it was not as difficult as her journey of gender transition. The film juxtaposes her kayaking feat with the harrowing emotional and psychological toll that came with living in a body that did not align with her identity. Grétarsdóttir’s story is one of immense resilience, and the documentary highlights the courage it took for her to pursue both her kayaking dream and her personal truth. Throughout the film, Sveinsson intersperses interviews with Veiga’s family, friends, and ex-wife. These interviews add depth to the narrative, though they also reveal the complexities of Veiga's past relationships. Family members reflect on her strength and determination, but the conversations are often awkward, especially when some misgender her, illustrating the challenges Veiga faced even within her close-knit family. The documentary captures her inner strength, showing her not just as a kayaker, but as a mother and a survivor, dealing with the struggles of transitioning in a society that often fails to understand her journey. While the film’s subject matter is undoubtedly moving, the documentary occasionally struggles to fully integrate the two distinct aspects of Veiga’s story.
Her athletic accomplishment, kayaking the entire circumference of Iceland against the current, is framed as an extraordinary feat, but it is not always clearly connected to her transition. At times, the film jumps abruptly between these two narratives, leaving the viewer to make the emotional connections themselves rather than having the film guide them through the parallels. Nevertheless, the smallest moments in the film often reveal the most powerful connections between the two stories. One such moment occurs early in the documentary when Veiga is shown cleaning her kayak meticulously - a ritual she had also practiced as a young man with his car. The act of scrubbing away dirt and maintaining the kayak's pristine condition is symbolic of Veiga’s inner journey. Just as she invested time and effort into her boat, she is now doing the same with her life, taking the time to care for herself and her identity. This simple, yet meaningful, act reflects her desire to keep things in order, to ensure that she is ready for whatever challenges come her way - both on the water and in life. The film also explores Iceland's stunning natural beauty, providing sweeping aerial shots of the rugged coastline, towering cliffs, and vast, untouched wilderness.
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Sveinsson’s cinematography captures the force and majesty of the Icelandic landscape, emphasizing the raw, unyielding nature of the environment that Veiga must conquer. Her kayak journey is as much about navigating the physical forces of nature as it is about confronting the psychological and emotional forces within herself. Iceland's coastal waters are unforgiving, and Veiga's battle against the currents is a reflection of her fight against the forces that have tried to keep her down - both externally and internally. Yet, the most poignant moments of the documentary come when Veiga reflects on her past struggles and the profound relief she feels in finally being able to live as her true self. Her journey of self-discovery, which involved confronting years of suppressed emotions, ultimately culminates in the completion of her kayak expedition. By the end of the 103-day journey, Veiga has not only traversed the physical challenges of Iceland’s coastline, but also the emotional and personal challenges of embracing her true identity. This achievement - her arrival at the final destination of her journey - represents her personal triumph, her return to herself. Against the Current offers a nuanced and complex portrait of a woman who has gone to extraordinary lengths to find herself.
The documentary succeeds in showcasing Veiga’s incredible courage, but it does not shy away from the deeper emotional and psychological struggles she endured along the way. It is a story of perseverance, of pushing through overwhelming obstacles, and of ultimately finding peace and self-acceptance. In the end, Veiga’s journey is not just about the distance traveled on a kayak, but about the much longer journey of self-realization and the pursuit of happiness. Through Sveinsson's camera, we witness a woman who has weathered storms - both literal and metaphorical - and emerged victorious, finally at home with herself.
Image credits: YouTube
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