Trans Women’s Impact on Thai Fashion

Producer: Refinery29
Release Year: 2017

In 2017, Refinery29 released a compelling episode of States of Undress, titled Trans Women’s Impact on Thai Fashion. Hosted by Hailey Gates, the documentary explores the dynamic role of transgender women in Thailand’s fashion scene and examines whether visibility on the runway can translate into broader social change. Hailey begins her journey in Thailand during an unusual and solemn period: the country is in mourning following the death of King Rama IX, who reigned for 70 years. The government declared a year-long mourning period, with the first 30 days marked by the absence of color in public spaces and on media outlets. For Hailey, witnessing this nationwide expression of grief is a striking introduction to the cultural weight of Thailand’s monarchy and the importance of respect and tradition.

 

Despite the somber context, Hailey is determined to meet the people reshaping Thai fashion, particularly transgender women who are breaking barriers in an industry that is still highly exclusive. Thailand is home to one of the largest transgender populations in the world, and the country’s beauty pageants and fashion scene have long drawn international attention. Hailey’s first stop is Lips Magazine, a leading Thai fashion publication that made headlines by featuring a transgender model on its cover for the first time. There, she meets Serena, the first Thai transgender model to walk in New York Fashion Week. Serena reflects on the challenges of balancing personal identity with societal expectations, explaining how her family, particularly her father, initially struggled to accept her transition. Yet her success symbolizes the increasing opportunities for trans women in Thai fashion. The magazine’s editor-in-chief emphasizes that inclusion is not just about representation, it is about creating tangible opportunities for trans models in a system historically dominated by cisgender women. Serena’s story illustrates that while Thailand is socially more accepting in some ways, legal and institutional barriers, like the inability to change official documents or access same-sex marriage rights, still pose significant challenges.

 

Hailey also visits Apple Model Management, the world’s first modeling agency with a dedicated transgender division. Founded in Thailand, the agency represents trans women alongside cisgender male and female models, aiming to normalize inclusion rather than treat trans identity as a spectacle. The founder explains that Thailand’s visibility of transgender individuals in everyday life made it a natural location to launch such a division. For the models, the agency offers an unprecedented chance to be seen and celebrated as women without having to hide their identity. However, acceptance in fashion doesn’t erase societal stigmas. The documentary highlights the persistence of stereotypes linking Thai trans women to sex work, a perception rooted in decades of tourism-driven sex industries. Despite increasing runway opportunities, trans women often navigate a complex landscape of public fascination, economic necessity, and cultural expectations. Hailey attends a runway show in Pattaya, where trans models like Lolita showcase swimwear and lingerie. The event reflects both progress and the ongoing objectification that trans women face. Models must maintain exceptional discipline and adaptability, balancing personal expression with client expectations, while still confronting societal scrutiny.

 

Thailand’s nuanced approach to gender is another highlight of the documentary. Hailey learns about the country’s many sexual identities, Toms, Dees, Cherries, Kings, and more, each with their own cultural codes of dress and behavior. She participates in a Tom and Dee makeover, exploring how clothing, style, and physical fitness help express gender identity. Shops like Tom Chic cater to these communities, and personal trainers such as Jib work to help Toms achieve their desired physique. Fashion and beauty thus become tools not only for visibility but for negotiating gendered expectations in everyday life. Trans beauty pageants serve as a critical gateway into the modeling industry. Hailey meets contestants Pinky and Army, who are preparing for a high-profile pageant during the mourning period. These pageants, with deep historical roots in Thailand’s promotion of national beauty ideals, now offer trans women a platform to gain recognition and jumpstart careers in fashion.

 

The documentary captures both the excitement and the unpredictability of these events, including allegations of rigged results, highlighting how even progressive spaces are influenced by politics, personal connections, and the pressures of spectacle. Thailand’s status as a global hub for cosmetic and gender confirmation surgery also intersects with the fashion industry. Hailey visits clinics where procedures are accessible and affordable, noting how surgical enhancements provide some trans women with opportunities to align physical appearance with identity. Yet, these options also underscore societal pressures to conform to narrow standards of beauty and femininity. Ultimately, the documentary raises a critical question: does visibility on the runway lead to broader social change? For Thailand’s trans women, the answer is complex. Fashion offers opportunity, economic mobility, and cultural validation, but it exists alongside legal limitations, social stigma, and cultural expectations. 

 

Hailey’s journey shows that representation in fashion is a powerful platform but is not a substitute for structural reform. Trans Women’s Impact on Thai Fashion is more than a look at glamorous runways or beautiful models, it is an intimate exploration of identity, resilience, and the power of visibility in a society negotiating tradition and modernity. Hailey Gates captures both the celebratory and challenging aspects of Thailand’s trans fashion movement, offering audiences a nuanced view of how representation can inspire progress while reminding us that social acceptance is a multifaceted, ongoing struggle. In a country where tradition and modernity coexist in tension, Thailand’s transgender models are not just walking the runway, they are walking the path toward recognition, opportunity, and social change.

 

via: youtube

Image credits: YouTube